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One learned that the traditional Indian blend podi – a rough grind of intensely spicy, crudely milled spices, which you stir into a little oil and use as a accompaniment for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” spice mix. This is accurate if you were using my grandmother’s home-dried chillies, but it would be charitable to say that I’m far less adventurous with chilli, so here I suggest chilli flakes instead. It’s an extraordinarily good marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Gunpowder Paneer and Potato Skewers with Lime-Mint Dressing

Gather six to eight metal or wooden skewers (if bamboo, immerse them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 minutes
Cook half an hour
Serves 2

14 ounces waxy potatoes, cut into 1.5-inch chunks
8 ounces paneer, cubed into 0.8-inch cubes
1 tsp coriander seeds
½ tsp fennel seeds
One tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp black peppercorns
1 tsp chilli flakes
1½ tsp flaky sea salt, and additional for garnish
Two cloves of garlic, peeled and grated
1-inch piece fresh ginger, prepared and minced
about 3 tablespoons flavorless oil
One red onion, skinned and sliced into eight wedges, then sliced across

For the dressing
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime
Ten grams fresh mint leaves, diced small
½ teaspoon flaky sea salt
3.5 ounces natural yoghurt

Simmer the potatoes for 9 minutes, then remove the water and allow to air dry for a minute. At the same time, put the paneer cubes in a container with heated water for a short while, then strain and blot dry.

Pour the spice seeds into a grinding bowl or mill, add the salt, chili flakes, and peppercorns, then mash or process to a coarse mixture.

Transfer to a sizable container with the minced ginger and garlic, add the oil, then gently stir in the paneer cubes, boiled potatoes, and onion wedges to coat. Arrange the vegetables and cheese on to barbecue sticks, then move to a sheet pan and keep ready – if you like, you can at this stage cover and refrigerate the skewers.

Whisk all the sauce elements in a container. Turn on the grill to its top temperature, then grill the skewers for five to seven minutes on each side, until the paneer is golden brown and the potatoes are getting slightly burnt. (This may take a little more or less time depending on the intensity of your oven, so keep an eye on them, especially when cooking the first side.)

Offer the grilled sticks immediately, scattered with a little more sea salt and the sauce on the side for serving.